Slowrise Spray Foam Insulating (Retrofilling)
Insulating Existing Walls / Void Fill
Many of our homes and buildings have no insulation at all. While this kept costs low for the builders, it means you now pay huge energy bills to make up for it.
That means if you want the benefits that come from a tight air seal, like lower energy bills, a healthier home, less noise, and fewer pests, you have to fill the existing walls and ceilings with spray foam insulation.
When doing a project like this, use the Foam it Green Slow Rise Formula to get the best results:
- The only E-84 Class 1 Slow Rise spray foam on the market.
- Yellow + Blue = Green, so you know the foam is mixing and will cure. Without this visual indicator, it's very hard to tell if you're filling your walls with a mess that will never cure. That can lead to soaking through your drywall, chemical smells, or worse.
- Anti-Microbial Formula prevents mold from growing even on the surface of the foam.
Be aware that there are risks that come from this type of project with any expanding foam, regardless of type or company. When you can't see where you are spraying, you may not actually fill the cavity fully. There's also a risk of causing a blockage and blowing out the drywall or plaster.
Check out the video on how to maximize your results and minimize the risks. Using Foam it Green Slow Rise formula makes it quicker and easier because of the color coding, the class 1 fire retardants, and the anti-microbial formula.
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See What Others Say
"I had a problem to solve: how to insulate my 1950s ranch house. I investigated the options:
- Tear out the plaster walls -but-this is not feasible.
- Blow in cellulose by hiring an installer. But this is expensive and gives me no guarantee against moisture penetration being absorbed by the cellulose; i.e. 'I don't want to risk "wet newspaper" in my walls'.
- Option 3 was slow rise foam being injected between my stud walls ... or where possible ... between the brick and the outer [wood] frame of the house.
I decided to go for the slow rise foam and to do it myself. I determined that as long as I could detect the stud walls and I could drill a hole between them — then 'why-not?' So, with no experience I decided to start with my garage. This was because I could risk mistakes and learn fast on the preparation [drilling holes] and applying the foam between the studs.
The outcome was very positive. It took a total of 3 days. The 1st day is for drilling the holes to insert the hose for the foam. The 2nd day for injecting the foam and then sanding and spackling the holes .The 3rd day clean-up: rolling up the floor-plastic tarp, and paint touch-up.
The outcome: My garage this winter kept a constant /comfortable temp. The adjacent room is much warmer; and quiet when working with my power tools!
Ergo, you will surprise yourself that this is an effective "do-it-yourself" option that will save a lot and achieve you insulation objectives.
- Excellent insulation with no smells!
- Easier installation than originally thought."
North Judson, IN
"Sorry it took so long to get back ,the spray foam worked out better than i thought easy to work with, controllable. That is what I was worried about but with the slow rise and the extra nozzles I had about 90 -110 seconds before it was setting up. It even covered more area than I expected. I only used 5 nozzles in a 602 kit over 5 different days of work. That's right 1 nozzle per day! Thank you again Guardian I will be using your product again."
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